Yatsuyama friends

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What a lovely day!

What a day to meet three wonderful friends at Kiyomizu Park and, under a creamy blue sky, walk the backbone of Yatsuyama . . . where so many other friends were there to share a smile with us.

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Elegant friends.

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Strong and stable friends . . . friends who’ve been around for a long time, keeping an eye on everything.

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And friends who’ve been around even longer—keeping an eye on even more.160102_yatsuyama_friend_signs_600

Friends who’ve been supportive for a long time, even after they themselves wore down.

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New friends.

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And friends we’ll only have the chance to meet this once.

Thank you, Yatsuyama!

 

December light

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Ah, that touch of light. Your eyes notice it, don’t they?

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The way the sun sneaks into the bamboo, the way it lights up a tree trunk, it gets your attention.

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Might even make you think that the water, the pure water, waiting for you at the entrance of the shrine, is pure.

Probably you studied about this in college biology, but even if you’ve forgotten what you read—or even if you skipped those pages, you little devil—it shouldn’t matter, it’s pretty clear: the way we want to lean into this December light proves what close relatives we are to all that grows in the plant kingdom. Without a doubt, we exploded from the same “star.”

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What are you going to do? You know, don’t you? You’re going to walk right smack into the heart of that light.

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And when you do, the colors are there waiting for you.

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Slow down. Enjoy them.

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Let the light warm you.

If you’re one of those who might be getting a bit out of your comfort zone with all this touchy-feely, mighty lighty talk . . .

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. . . take a look behind you. You’re standing on as firm a ground as your buddy, Fuji-kun.

And do me a favor. Please notice the momiji off to your left—or on your right, if you’re climbing (Yatsuyama) from Kiyomizu Park. And please, go ahead, wander off the path, step into the brush, stand under the trees. And . . .  151229_yatsuyama_momiji_light2b_600

. . . just feel the light.

Me, as I stood there, I remembered the lyrics from a song by that Shizuoka folk duo (I can never remember what they call themselves!):

Lean into December light

Not so dark as darkest night

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Lean into December light

Maybe we’ll feel all’ll be all right.

 If you feel this light the way I do, you’ll still have your eyes up in the sky even when your down off the mountain. You’ll have your eyes up in the sky even as you walk the asphalt street.

Persimmons left for the birds.

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Christmas Eve hike

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It was Christmas Eve—with a million and one things to do—including getting all that remained packed and ready for the big Christmas Day move—but there was that something—a sort of clarity—in the sky, and as we were stuffing boxes, I turned to the angel that was helping me, and said, “Let’s go climb Yatsuyama.”

The angel saw the clarity, too, and she agreed that climbing Yatsuyama was indeed a good idea. From Kiyomizu Park, it only takes 15 or 20 minutes to get to the top. (But yes, it is a mountain.)

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I suppose we both knew that there so many things that needed to be seen.

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The bamboo swaying in the breeze.

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The susuki sparkling.

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The persimmon branches resting—but ready.

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Fuji-kun playing hide-and-seek.

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The momiji.

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The light . . .

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. . . in the momiji.

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The tower and branches, both reaching.

And somewhere up high on that tower—look again if you like—another soul, feeling the clarity, looking.

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Kita 3-chome 11 — Come on in!

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Come in! Come in! The foremast is secure and shining in the moonlight.  We are almost ready to sail!

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You’ll come in the front entrance, down there on the right. You’ll be facing the arch, which leads upstairs. It’s a small house. Just two rooms up there. (Not counting the “secret” room.) If you turn left, you’ll come down this hallway, toward the living room entrance. Hallway ceiling stained five or six weeks ago. Floor, not yet. “Facilities” of various sorts, and closet space,  will be on your left. That paper “window” on your right opens up on the tatami room.

Don’t open the window if folks are asleep in there.

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If you are a member of the Hearty Hikers, you know that you have a life-long invitation to come stay in this tatami room. If you are not a member of the Hearty Hikers but would like to be, please contact a member of the Board of Directors of the Hearty Hikers . . . or if you would like to stay here, but cannot manage membership  in the Hearty Hikers (have never actually heard of such a case), contact a staff member at Persimmon Dreams Recording Studio.

The sliding glass doors, on the left, lead you out to the veranda and the garden. The paper “window,” now on your right, allows you to peep out into the hallway The sliding paper doors at the front will give you some privacy.

The last big job we had was . . .

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. . . staining the floors. Throughout the house. Of course, with persimmon juice. Just look at the wood. That vibrant anticipation is what comes out when it perceives an open bottle of persimmon juice nearby.

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Really.

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By now, as most of you know, building something big is hard work. You get tired.

I wanted to do most of the painting in this house, primarily I think, so that I would feel this “tiredness.” I had an excellent architect, a reliable builder, an outstanding carpenter. They, with the help of dozens of hardworking professionals (remember those sultry August days when the foundation was laid!), did 99.999999993 percent of the work. But I’m very grateful that they let me join in and do my little part, so that I could feel this exhaustion.

It makes all the difference.

It helps that an angel came to help on the final evening. (And other times, too.)

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Moving Christmas Day. Come on over.

If you feel compelled to bring a housewarming present—not at all necessary or expected—a bag of leaves for the garden will do nicely!

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Kita 3 cho-me — 10 (the blue and the orange)

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Well, here we are. We’ve crossed the line.

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We’ve stopped and looked up into the blue.

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We’ve felt the love coming through the blue.

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We’ve felt the warm glow of the orange.

And we are having persimmon dreams. And we are moving into our persimmon dreams—moving permanently—on Christmas Day. Join us some time.

The cedar ceiling in the photo below is stained with persimmon juice. But the walls are as white as they can be. If they seem a bit orange to you, you may be having persimmon dreams, too.

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Kita 3 cho-me — 9 (Getting there!)

 

151203_kita_from_shizudai_600Here we are high on the campus of Shizuoka University, a few steps from Steve’s office. More or less we’re looking north across the plain of Shizuoka City and toward the mountains. In the above photograph, you can’t see our beloved Ryuso Mountain, but it’s just outside the right side of the frame. It’s there, trust me.

If you look as deep as you can into that city development, at the bit turning slightly right (in order to better nestle into the mountains), you will be looking at the neighborhood known as Kita (literally, “North”).

Yes, yes, I hope this won’t upset you, but we have been on a long, long journey north, and now we are almost there. Makes me recall a stanza from the work of that visionary poet, Jackson Freefrock.

That’s the north, is it?

Well, shall we go and make our visit?

Steve! hold on! What’s this “we” you keep using? Who are you building this house with? Who is helping you pay for it?

The first question first. This “we.”

Believe me, I know all about that other word, the word I.

I am, for example, deeply in love with the way that Thoreau begins Walden:

In most books, the I, or first person, is omitted; in this it will be retained; that, in respect to egotism, is the main difference. We commonly do not reember that it is, after all, always the first person that is speaking. I should not talk so much about myself if there were any body else whom I knew as well. Unfortunately, I am confined to this theme by the narrowness of my experience. Moreover, I, on my side, require of every writer, first or last, a simple and sincere account of his own life, and not merely what he has heard of other men’s lives; some such account as he would send to his kindred from a distant land; for if he has lived sincerely, it must have been in a distant land to me.

But more than this “I,” I am, as the house construction comes to an end, feeling this “we, we, we.” (Wait—we, we, we!—that’s what one of the little piggies said, isn’t it!)

And you don’t think that old Henry raised his Walden Pond cabin by himself, do you? And you do know that he didn’t build it on his own land? And you do know that much of his solitude in the woods as a young man was spent with that older Emerson guy?

Well, about the money, no one is helping me pay for the house. And the only person’s name on the contract is mine. But I could have never gotten to this point without a hell of a lot of help. If it weren’t for the all the support from the Hearty Hikers, I would have never had the courage to press my inked-up seal on to the contract paper in the first place.

And I didn’t build anything. I had a great architect, a great carpenter, a great construction team build the house. Sure, I did a little bit of painting, fretted over the details, combed the pages and pages of the estimate looking for ways to save money (the builder himself was surprised that I found cheaper and better all-wood doors on the Internet), but still I didn’t build anything. Although I guess you could say that they couldn’t have built the house without me.

The architect, the head carpenter, the boss at the construction company, and I are all almost the same age. This has been a great thing.

But as we stand here on the balcony of the Humanities Building, looking across the city, I guess what I feel most when I use the word we, is . . . we means “All the Hearty Hikers inside of me and all around me, all the Hearty Hikers I’ve ever hiked with—and all the Hearty Hikers I ever will hike with.” If you’re not yet a Hearty Hiker, I hope you’ll consider becoming one. Then it will be your house, too.

Let me say this clearly: I love my Hearty Hikers buddies.

They taught me this: Sometimes you have to do things by yourself, but if you have the Hearty Hikers spirit, it is impossible to ever be alone.

This is a great thing. So . . . let’s go and make our visit.

On a bicycle, it’ll take you about forty-five minutes. Be sure to check out the scenery along the way.

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It’s not bad.

After you cross under the Tomei Expressway, you’ll see the Children’s Hospital up ahead on the right.

151203_ryuso_hospital_600There it is nestled in the bottom left corner of this photo. The rounded peak with the mysterious white something-or-other on top is Ryuso. You feel better now, right?

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Now we’ve turned right. We’ve just gone by the hospital. We can see the Shin Tomei Expressway clearly. Our house is not far from it. Yep, you can still see Ryuso.

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And now the scaffolding has been taken away, so you can go up to the second floor, go out on the balcony, step up onto the living room roof, and peer out at the Shin Tomei . . . and of course, Ryuso. It looks smaller from this angle but actually it’s the tallest of all you can see. It’s directly above the giant expressway pillar on the right side.

Yes, yes, mountains look different with every step you take.

Okay, shall we go back outside and begin the formal tour.

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Yes, our baby’s braces have been taken off—and . . . indeed! it’s a house! Yesterday, I did the conversions. In Japanese, it’s about 35 tsubo. In square feet, it comes to somewhere around 1100. Not so big, some of you may think. But we Hearty Hikers are a friendly bunch. When things are snug, everyone is warm. (Yeah, yeah, the summers are hot and humid.)

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In the front door we go. We’ll step in, then step up. That’s a shoe box in mid-construction on the right. Yes, all Japanese homes have a shoe box by the entrance, the genkan. The sign at the bottom, only the tip of which you can see, says “No shoes!” Yeah, not even during construction! The stairs obviously lead upstairs. You can’t see it, but just before the arch, on the left, is a hallway. It will take you to the main room, the living-dining-kitchen single space. Standing here, I’m again reminded of Freefrock.

A noble Roman arch, is it—

Inviting us to make our visit?

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Now we’ve come through that door frame on the right, and we are standing in the middle of the living room. Through the glass, on the left, you can see the small space where the first-floor veranda will go in. (Sit out and have a cup of coffee with a friend or two size.) The kitchen is to the right. Straight ahead is the tatami-mat room. No tatami yet. (But we visited the little factory where tatami is made to make sure we were getting something that would make us happy.)

Inside the tatami room, you’ll see something that looks like a window. It is a window. A window opening up to the hallway. If you’re standing at the front entrance, and look through that window, you can see through the tatami room, through the living room, through the non-rectangular quadrilateral window on the far side of the living room, and up at the mountains. When I first saw that view, I thought I’d cry. The architect said he hadn’t thought the design through that much. And so it goes.   151203_kitchen_600 And here’s our kitchen. On the right, you can see the little counter-desk we waxed a while back, and behind that, the door to the pantry. The cabinet/pantry space exceeds that of my current apartment by a mere 3000 percent.

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And from the same spot, looking out toward the garden. More on the garden another time.

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Here’s looking at the living room space, tatami-mat room on the right, while standing at the kitchen sink. There is a counter in the kitchen that can be used for cooking. Very convenient. My current apartment has no counter space. Thus, as all you mathematicians know, not much sense in trying to calculate the percentage increase.

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Here we are standing out in the backyard, looking in. Yes, we’re getting ready to paint. And we are beginning to imagine some nice evenings here, Hearty Hikers maybe sharing a glass of wine and talking about all sorts of cool stuff. Again, Freefrock comes to mind.

The hearty hikers come and go,

Talking of how persimmons  glow!

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Now we’re upstairs in the only bedroom. There’s also a small “study” upstairs that could become a bedroom if it needs, too.  Besides the oshi-ire (“closet”) space you see on the right, there’s also a walk-in closet. A trap door inside the walk-in closet leads to a “secret” room that I can’t tell you about it because it’s a secret.

Yep, there’s a toilet upstairs. And one downstairs, too. Two toilets. Enough for even the richest of kings living in the greatest of luxury. Some people might say two times what’s necessary. . . . But we’re getting offtrack.

Wait a minute! you suddenly exclaim. When we were downstairs, did I notice that part of your ceiling was made of STRAW? Don’t you know what happened to the first little pig’s house?

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Indeed, I do. But the big, bad wolf blew that house down from outside. This straw is on the inside.

But what if he got inside?

If he got inside and wanted to try to blow this ceiling up through the second floor and out the roof, and into the blue sky, and all the way over the Shin Tomei Expressway, and all the way over Ryuso Mountain, and all the way over dear friend Fuji’s head . . . and all the way out of this universe, I guess I’d dare him to try.

But all joking side, you say, for all this talk of Hearty Hikers and that joyous spirit of comradery, what would you do, if suddenly the Big, Bad Wolf did show up, did want to crash the party? Would you let him in?

. . .

Now we’ve come to a perplexing question. And to be honest, I’m not sure of the answer.

But by happenstance, I did meet the Big, Bad Wolf this past March. I spotted him inside a carpet bag.

Yes, indeed. I had secluded myself in a New England library, one on the campus of a somewhat famous university. Outside snow was all around and the sky was a brilliant blue, but inside I was deep inside the 19th Century, reading through the original weekly issues of The Carpet-Bag from 1851 to 1852. That’s some pretty old newspaper to still be in good reading shape.

I was investigating, more or less, the way in which fiction writers were influenced by popular newspapers. The editors of The Carpet-Bag were a warm-hearted bunch, full of “cheerfulness,” as they self-described themselves, and hoped, in a jovial sort of way, to provide encouragement and good cheer to as many people as they could.

That strikes me as a good thing to have wanted to do.

But some folks didn’t like  their cheerfulness—and in one issue they printed a picture of one man in particular that they knew didn’t like their publication. When I looked at the picture, I knew immediately who it was. It was the Big, Bad Wolf.

So what would I do if he showed up at my door, if he said to me, you better let me in to chastise you and your simpleton Hearty Hikers friends, or I’ll have your visa revoked, and I’ll buy this rotten persimmon for a farthing, and burn it down to the ground just for fun.

Hmmh.

No, I don’t think I’d let him in. Not right away.

But I wouldn’t shoot him, either.

Maybe I’d take him out in the garden, tell him where I was going to plant the kumquats, where the maples, where the persimmons. Maybe I’d have him sit down on one of the big rocks, maybe tell him that if we sat there until morning, we could see the sun come over the mountain, see the blue envelop the “persimmon.” Maybe then he’d see that the “persimmon” wasn’t rotten at all, that the “persimmon” was glowing.

But he’s the BIG, BAD WOLF!

I don’t care who he is. That’d be about all I could do.

I think.

But he hasn’t actually shown up, so I can’t really say.

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Bicycle commuting again!

151201_fallen_yotsumizo_2_600With a swollen elbow the last few weeks, I was unable to clutch my handlebar, so I was forced to commute by car. Accustomed to commuting by bicycle as I am, this was truly hell. My eyeballs still wanted to look at everything everywhere, but I didn’t want to kill anyone on the road, so I had no choice but to reign them in—and deprive them of their daily bread (joy).

It’s easy to stop your bicycle in the middle of the sidewalk. It’s hard to stop  your car in the middle of the road in the middle of traffic.

I felt like I was inside a pot and couldn’t get out.

I kept remembering that passage on traveling by train in Walden.

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One says to me, “I wonder that you do not lay up money; you love to travel; you might take the cars and go to Fitchburg today and see the country.” But I am wiser than that. I have learned that the swiftest traveller is he that goes afoot. I say to my friend, Suppose we try who will get there first. The distance is thirty miles; the fare ninety cents. That is almost a day’s wages. I remember when wages were sixty cents a day for laborers on this very road. Well, I start now on foot, and get there before night; I have travelled at that rate by the week together. You will in the meanwhile have earned your fare, and arrive there some time tomorrow, or possibly this evening, if you are lucky enough to get a job in season. Instead of going to Fitchburg, you will be working here the greater part of the day. And so, if the railroad reached round the world, I think that I should keep ahead of you; and as for seeing the country and getting experience of that kind, I should have to cut your acquaintance altogether.

When traffic’s heavy, my commute to school is about 20% faster on average on bicycle.

If you like a breeze in your face (people seem to go to the beach for that, don’t they), well, it’s better not to have a windshield. How much more easily the air is pulled down deep into your lungs.

And it’s so easy, on a bicycle, to stop and look.

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To look as closely as you like.

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What colors and patterns are everywhere, just waiting to be discovered!

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Whenever I get a good, close look at the Harujion—known to some as, and I hesitate even to type this, a “weed” . . .

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. . . I always remember that jazzy tune by that completely unknown beatnik-poet Shizuoka folk duo. If you’re interested in hearing it—and why not become one of the handful who have heard it—you might contact the folks at Persimmon Dreams Recording Studios, who I’ve heard have plans to record and release it . . . yes, yes, I know how unreliable those guys can be sometimes.

I once knew a girl named Harujion

I loved her pink color, loved that skin tone

Her heart and smile like a brilliant sun

Her shiny silk hair in the breeze such fun.

But then she broke my heart when she said

That soon at the latest all her friends would be dead

Some pulled up and stuffed in the trash

Some coldheartedly smothered with gas

Some shipped into space to fill black holes

Some blown away in a swirling dust bowl.

She said I know I’m as sweet as any flower

Got the bees and the June bugs in my power.

I’m a daisy, I lied, just my hair a bit thinner—

 But that man didn’t mind if I thought him a sinner

He said by tomorrow I’d be burnt to a cinder.

Where was I? Oh, yeah. How wonderful it is to be back out in the blue again!

 And back out in the blue, there’s no telling what I might see coming through the blue.

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Into the grey

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Sometimes you look into the grey and all you see is grey. I’ve had days like that. Maybe you, too. Once I looked out at all that grey and felt so damned blue that all I thought I could do about it was scream.

So I did. Sort of.

But a few weeks back, the Hearty Hikers’ team (of two, this time) had spent a wonderful evening in the Kenmin-no-mori cottages with a great bunch of people who were all great cooks—great cooks who like to provide plenty—and when we woke up the next morning and strapped on our hiking boots, eager to scramble up to the top of Yambushi (first time ever from the Ikawa side of the mountain), we easily saw, inside the grey, the lovely day that was to unfold.

The grey has body. It holds a lot. Sometimes, at least, I know that to be true.

151115_misty_road2_600From the Kenmin-no-mori campground, we drove into the mist for about thirty minutes, then parked and started up the ridge.

Some others thought of coming along but didn’t. Some of them may have been worried about how strenuous it might be. I hope they’ll come next time. Many trails have sitting trees (those of you up on your evolution know all about them),  but on this trail we actually discovered a lovely sleeping tree, quite rare in this particular area.

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What can I say? The trail relaxes. Next time, if you come, rest assured, the trail will take care of you.

Some of you may want the numbers: Ushikubi Pass (10:07), Inoshishi no Dan Bunkyo (11:12), Hyakujo Pass trailhead sign (11:50), top of Yambushi (12:15 – 12:41), Hyakujo Pass (13:05), along the road to Ushikubi Pass (13:45).

The trail up to Yambushi pretty much parallels the road so you can jump into the hike from four or five different places. If you park at the Hyakujo Pass, you can get to the top of Yambushi in about 35 – 40 minutes. But you’ll miss the sleeping tree.

And you won’t see the stand of glistening birch trees.

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And you won’t see the mountain tilt up to the sun.

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And you’d drive right by the ocean and never know it was there.

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It was a nice walk. Our buddy, Fuji-kun, played hide-and-seek with us.

151115_fuji_600 Yet, it was a good day to poke our noses into the grey . . . and inhale.

A good day to peck . . .

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. . . a good day to scratch.

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I’m not sure if you’re familiar with trail signs in this particular language, so here’s the official translation of the Official Translation Society of the sign above: “You are on the trail. If you’d like to hike together, stick around ’til dusk.”

Actually, though, linguists have been bickering  over the translation for years and years. The transcendental grammarian faction, which some years ago left the OTS over the dispute, insists that it reads, “Aren’t you glad you walked into the grey?”

Who’s to say who’s right? Take a nap on the sleeping tree and maybe the answer will come to you.

But I can’t make you any promises.

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Kita 3 cho-me — 8 (waxing poetic)

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The pros got the second coat on . . .

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. . . the one with the roughed up texture . . . so it seemed appropriate, with the help of a Hearty Hikers buddy,  to get in some Sunday painting—and Sunday waxing.

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First was the karin (Chinese quince tree) desk. The wax was German-produced.

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The karin shined up pretty good. The angle of  the tapering desk reflects the angle of the north and east walls of the house.  You’ll have to visit to feel the angles of this room—the sloping ceiling, the tapering wall.

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Next, the single, big slab of keyaki (Japanese selvoka tree), that marks the border between the living room, and the tatami-mat room. The tatami mats will fill in the area that is now plywood.

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It, too, shines up pretty good . . .

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. . . and if the keyaki is happy, I’m happy.

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Here you are looking into the tatami room again, all but the edge of the keyaki resting peacefully beneath protective cardboard and plywood. Sliding paper doors will separate this room from the living room. The horizontal piece of wood, about 180 cm from the floor, is the top rail for the sliding doors. Eventually a ceiling will go in and rest on top of the round “poles,” but except for that, everything you see above the rail will remain as it is. So even when the paper doors are closed, the space above them remains open. The darker, “crooked” pieces of wood are enju (Sophora japonica), the round pieces are whole cedar trunks of not so big trees, and the short, vertical piece in the middle is kiri (Paulownia).

I hope you like it. Because if you come to visit, this is where you’ll have to stay!

The pantry beckoned, too. Regular old painting here.

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Dancing Lessons from God

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Peculiar travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God.

Kurt Vonnegut

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And it helps, we say here at Persimmon Dreams, if you travel by bicycle. Easier that way to hear what the lotus pond has to say.

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Easier to hear the bee.

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Easier to spot the little fruit stand, with the big bag of persimmons (22 persimmons!) for only one hundred yen. Easier to stop and buy them.

It gets your noggin’ going.

Did mine.

Look close, if you can read a bit of Japanese, and you might just see Persimmon Dreams floating in the sky.

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