These bones

150725_fuji_from_below_yanbushi_600 These bones iz mighty tard. Some days I have an urge to say that.

We were on the Oyarei Landslide Slope just five days ago (a national holiday), but bigger mountains and longer hikes are looming on the horizon (Nagano, August), so we thought it was good to try to get in a bit of a long hike now, so we came again, but taking a longer route, starting on the far side of Yanbushi, and coming down on the Oyarei side.

Somehow, the kinks in the joints and muscles got worked out. After twenty inutes or so, we hit a rhythm and all was well.

Actually we made pretty good time.

So for those wondering how long it might take you, here’s what it took us: the parking lot {7:52}, Nishi Hikage Zawa (West Shady Creek) trailhead  {7:56}, Ooiwa (The Big Rock) {8:27}, Yomogi Pass {9:06 ~ 9:10}, Yanbushi Summit (a cup of tea) {10:26 ~ 10:40} , Shinkubo (two-thirds of the way to the Oyarei Peak, with a small (intentional) detour on the way, and at Shinkubo itself, 17 minutes worth of swatting {12:17 ~ 12:47}, the Oyarei Kuzure Parking lot (via the kuzure–the landslide slope) {13:55}. Back along the road to the West Shady Creek trailhead parking lot ( a bit of dallying in a cool creek for good measure) {15:20}.

Here we are crossing the river near Ooiwa, the big rock. 150725_tamami_creek_crossing_450That’s not the big rock in the picture. That’s the little “big rock.” The big “big rock” is another thirty seconds along the trail. It’s hard to get all of the the big “big rock”  in one aesthetically-pleasing picture.

Here’s the view from the Yomogi Pass.

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I think that just before we got there we were talking about “when ‘a life’ starts.” We concluded (I think) “that it doesn’t.”

It’s nice when you’re walking along with someone with the same intui-logi reading as you. You can both say whatever you want “logically”—a little of this, a little of that—then kind of fall into an “intuitive” silent agreement—and those silences become some of the most wonderful moments of your life.

And when you’re walking with someone with the exact same intui-logic reading as you,  you can talk about anything and everything–and I do mean anything and everything–without ever having to worry about coming up on a thorny issue. You may come to a thorny plant or two (a thistle bristle might sneak up on your shin, for example,  or a thorny leaf may thrust itself up, upon a strong green stem, from a dead tree stump, right in the middle of the trail, daring you, it seems, not to go around) . . .

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. . . but a thorny issue you and your intui–logic-balanced hearty hiking comrade will never encounter.

A scientific note: If the grade of the mountain and the mutual pace of two hearty hikers allows each of their heart rates to increase to its OLPFHH (Optimal Level for Pleasant Feeling during a Hearty Hike), then they can overcome significant (but not too wide, mind you) gaps in their intui-logic readings.

A further scientific note (proved conclusively on this hike): If two hearty hikers both settle perfectly into their OLPFHH and have intui-logic readings that match exactly, their souls will dance together and music will be heard.

Here’s what we saw about halfway between Yomogi Pass and the top of Yambushi.

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Mr. Fuji.

I think we were talking about the etymology of philanderer and philanthropy just then. Biophilia, too, for what it’s worth.

Of course, we came upon several sitting trees during the course of the hike. We always do.

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You may have had enough of the scientific talk already, so I’ll leave discussion of the evolution of sitting trees for another time. Maybe I’ll deal with it when I explain my often-felt and  easy-to-explain-with-hard-science urge to climb trees and beckon for the rest of the hearty hikers to join me—an urge that comes to me despite being of an age at which my “bones” can get “mighty tard.”

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And how lucky we’ve been, twice now in July, to meet with such glorious skies up here on top of Yanbushi!

Last week the sky had been been painted by Van Gogh. This week it had been painted by somebody else.150725_fuji_atop_yanbushi_600

Mr. Fuji again. Or Fuji-kun as we outrageous hearty hikers sometimes call him. That guy just hangs and hangs around.

The peak of Yanbushi is famous, this time of the year, for its yanagiran meadow. Here’s a yanagiran.

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We saw three or four plants in bloom. Last year, we got up here a couple of weeks too late for the “festival.” This year we were perhaps a week early.  But we were happy enough with the few blooms we did see–and there’s always next year.

Between the peak of Yanbushi and Shinkubo (the point from which the descent down the Landslide Slope begins), we came to the Valley of Life and Death and Life. We didn’t know that we would. It hadn’t been described in any guidebooks or on anyone’s blog.

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We took a right-turn detour into the Valley, and what do you know, there were all my “mighty tard” bones lying right there on the ground!

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And there was the dead hip bone of the stump-elephant tree . . . with a baby cedar growing right out of the top of it!

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And low and behold, there was another tree—never mind what kind—that had died . . . then decided it didn’t want to be dead! At that moment, it had a bit of a dialogue with its roots, sussing out whether they had the strength to carry on, and when they shouted out, Yes! we’d be delighted to!—the tree decided it wasn’t dead anymore . . . and just like that, it wasn’t!

You have to stop and feel amazed.

                                                                 (Totally unknown Shizuoka folk duo)

From the edge of this Valley of Life and Death and Life, we noticed a deer trail up to the ridge (not on most folks’ beaten path. We took it. Having passed through the Valley of Life and Death and Life to get back up on the ridge, how do you think we felt when we saw Mr. Fuji looking like this?

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A little bit farther along, we spotted a cluster of yashio trees—my favorite, as you know. What an unexpected joy!

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I really, really love these guys.

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And we discovered a “redwood” tree that had gotten itself all twisted up trying to find California. But he seemed pretty happy with where he’d ended up.

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We stopped to eat at Shinkubo but cut the meal short. For some reason a zip-zippity-zip black creature (like a fly when airborne,  like an acrobatic leech when on land) zeroed in on my exposed flesh, along with 332 of his buddies, but not the flesh of my fellow hearty hiker. (Later, I researched this and confirmed that a zip-zippity-zip black creature’s taste in flesh is totally unrelated to the intui-logi reading of the flesh’s possesser. )

So immediate escape was deemed necessary, and into the strong sun and down the Landslide Slope we plunged.

Here’s what we saw when we began the plunge.

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And here’s what we saw when we looked back. (Compare to last week’s picture of the same place if you like.)

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And here’s what we looked at to confirm the grade we were slip-slip-sliding down through the loose rock.

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Not much shade was to be had, unless you could fit under the shade of the leaf of a berry bush.

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And of course, there is always at least one flower you’ve never seen before.

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And then the walk along the road, and the hour soaking the bones in the hot spring, and then the road back. The mimosas were in bloom all up and down the river.

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Looked lovely from the car.

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Rainbow rocks

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Because the sky is blue . . . it makes me cry.

Because the sky is blue — aaaaaaaahhh.

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I was pretty much doomed the moment we stepped out from the woods and got our first big view of those white clouds in the blue, blue sky. The clouds were just breaking up, “splitting,” and it was not hard to see an embryo taking shape.

This was Oyarei Kuzure, or the Oyarei “Landslide” Slope. In 1707, an earthquake caused the side of Mt. Oyarei to crumble, and the result is a steep, rocky, gravelly climb  up to the ridge that leads to the top of the mountain.

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Steeper than any climb in the Umegashima area—I think.  Or at least it felt that way to some of us.

The camera in my hand made everything worse.

You know, because you see those clouds splitting up and you’re amazed. You’re amazed and have to take a picture. But every moment is different. Every moment fascinates. And it’s the only moment you’re in right then. You take another picture, and another and another—and then your eyes are zooming into that high focus that makes something in your feet buzz—and you are looking at everything and wondering how everything got to be so goshdarned beautiful.

Then one of your fellow hearty hikers really, severely, messes you up. She shouts out, “A rainbow rock!”  And she shows it to you. Puts it right there in front of your revved-up eyes.

Yes, now you truly and absolutely are doomed. Now you’ve got to find your own rainbow rock.

Okay, so now you’ve got sky above you and rainbows below you. This is sensory overload if ever there was sensory overload.

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When you do find your very own rainbow rock, you naturally start thinking that you might want to hang it on your wall. Actually, you tell everyone that.

I think I’ll hang this on my wall, you say.

Hey, you’re with good people. There’s nothing to worry about. None of them think you’re crazy. After all, you’ve brought them here.

Or maybe they do think you’re crazy—but even so you’ve got nothing to fear. They’re feeling a bit “out of the normal” themselves.

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Ah, but don’t forget that sky. Yeah, look back up  toward the ridge—at that unbelievable blue.

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And don’t forget to stop and admire the view back toward the ocean. That view is needing your attention, too.

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Has there ever been a day better than this?

So the magic’s begun—and it won’t stop for a long time. How lucky you are!

Creatures begin to appear.

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And up up you go.

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Sunlight on flowers wow-wow-wows you.

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 And up, up, up you go.

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Whether you’re knees are hurting or not, the buzz prevails. You’re hovering in the blue.

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And then you’ve passed over the ridge (Shinkubo), and slipped into the woods. Just below the ridge, on the shaded side, you work your way up to the top of Oyarei. The sun tries to find you.

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The iwagami (“rock mirror” plants) are not blooming now, but the sun has decided they are glorious just the same. It somehow finds a path through the trees and alights upon them.

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Ah, so, so much to see!

And you will not be content until you can see, really see, everything.

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Everything.

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And some things just look so nice together.

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Don’t you think?

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I do.

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By the way, these pinkish little guys are called shimotsukeso. Just in case you wanted to know.

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Then you’re atop Oyarei, among the birches, having lunch, verifying for yourself that nature can indeed be quite the intriguing painter.

Ah, yes, eventually the mist is going to roll in. It does nearly every afternoon.

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But it’s been damn hot and you’re grateful for the cover, and now you’re back in the land of rainbow rocks, so your descent is quite the pleasant one. (Slip and slide a bit in the loose rock and your knees will thank you.)

And it won’t matter that you don’t find a better rainbow rock than the one you’ve already pocketed, because you’ll be discovering how interesting it can be to look at any rock—at least, at any rock that has flown from the innards of a mountain during an earthquake . . .

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. . . and it will tickle you to death that you can just walk along and look and look and look at a bunch of rocks and be so happy . . . and yes, crazy or not, you might start to consider . . .

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. . . hanging more of them on your walls.

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Hey, you might even use them to make your walls!

Almost down, back into the woods, everything is so distinct.

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And you wonder why you didn’t notice that rough old cowboy on the way up.

150720_green_berry_b_450Well, I can tell you why: You weren’t buzzing quite enough way back then. Your eyes had not yet shifted into their mega-gear focus. Go ahead, wave at him. Tip your cap. Tell him he needs a shave.

And if (if, mind you)—if you thought you had found your very own personal Rosetta Stone, who, I ask, who could possibly tell you that you had not?

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Don’t worry. You’re not ever going to forget the blue.

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Or at least, you’re not going to forget the buzz it got going.

And no, no, this is not all some opium-induced lunacy. I’m a boringly sober guy. (And anyway, lunacy is something that comes from the moon. I was out in the sun.)

The simple fact is I did climb the mountain with my hearty hiking buddies and I did see the things I’ve talked about above. All four of the other hearty hikers can testisfy to my presence on the Landslide Slope and to the glimmer in my eyes.

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Really, no joke, I was there. See.

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The lotus bee

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It’s amazing that . . .

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. . . even on an overcast day . . .

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. . . the lotus flowers are full of light.

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Still . . . rain yesterday . . .

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. . . rain later today . . .

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rain tomorrow . . .

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best to get to the heart of things . . .

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. . . now.

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All that’s real 2

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Enkoji

In early June I needed to go to Kobe for a Sunday afternoon literary event and ended up spending a day and a half walking around Kyoto. Climbed up the mountain from Kurama, walked along the ridge, came down to Kibune, with its maple-lined river, maple-lined avenue, maple-lined everything.

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Kibune

Peeked into Kibune’s expensive kawadoko restaurants in the river. Strolled about its many small shrines.

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Kurama

On the way back downtown went to Enkoji. Had dinner along the Kamo River. The next morning walked the narrow, bamboo-lined, tourist-congested street in Sagano. Walked the quieter grounds of the Okochi Sanso Villa. Had a cup of tea. Sat before the pond in front of Tenryuji Temple.

Saw lots of pretty faces.

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Kurama

And that’s about it.

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downtown Kyoto . . . the Kamo River

Maybe the most important thing I can tell you about the trip?

Well, at the train station in Kibune, all weary-legged, my fellow Hearty Hiker and I had to decide whether to go to a hot springs, or take the train all the way back into town and cool out beside the river . . . or get off before reaching downtown and hike up to another spot, a temple called Enkoji. We gave it a good thinking over, let our knees comment freely, then made the no-brainer decision. We could go to a hot springs any time back in Shizuoka. We could cool out any time. The Kamo River would still be flowing through downtown Kyoto after dusk. This might be our only chance ever to walk up to Enkoji.

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Kibune

That decision made all the difference.

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 Enkoji

We were instantly mesmerized by Enkoji. Both of us. But we’d only been there about twenty minutes when we realized if we didn’t head back right away we wouldn’t make our dinner reservations.

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Enkoji

Again, a pow wow. Again, an easy decision. There were lots of restaurants. We wouldn’t starve. We’d get in somewhere whenever we got back to town.

150607_pond__tenryuji1_600Tenryuji Temple

And that, too, made all the difference. Really. . . . Trust me.

The words that follow flowed out from both the suikinkutsu (水琴窟, “a cave of water strings” … my translation, very awkward) at Enkoji—and every other place I’d ever been before and have been after . . . including the lotus pond in my soon-to-be new “neck of the woods.”

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Enkoji

Here’s what we heard in Kyoto.

 

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Kurama

And here’s more of what we saw in Kyoto, the pictures, as above, in no particular order.

Just Kyoto pictures. No picture of a wasp eating a worm, or a cawing crow circling above the traffic.

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Enkoji

But those can be found in previous posts. And of course, so can the lotus flowers. 

 

ALL THAT’S REAL

The lotus flower’s veined pink skin

Is lit up bright from within.

You have to stop and feel amazed–

It doesn’t burn but stays ablaze.

Eyes are ears and ears are eyes,

Helping us to empathize,

Paradise is what you feel

And what you feel is all that’s real.

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Tenryuji Temple

I step into a temple ground,

Through a bamboo pole hear a dripping sound.

A xylophone and a string of bells

Leap right out of the bottomless well.

They say a mighty warrior’s tooth

Is buried here beneath the truth,

But under the maples I feel no fear

The moss is green and the sky is clear.

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Enkoji

Divide by two, what do you get?

Damaged hearts, a lot of regret.

You’re still yourself in disguise

Sometimes Solomon was pretty wise.

Paradise is what you see,

What you see is all you need,

Just your eyes can make you kneel,

’Cause what you feel is all that’s real.

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Okochi Sanso Villa

A cawing crow is circling high

Through a field reflecting a rosy sky.

His mate alights on a telephone pole,

The traffic below she can’t control.

Listen to your eyes, loosen your mind,

Don’t let them tell you that you’re in a bind.

The dripping water’s a magical force

Maybe it’s coming from the source.

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Enkoji

Who’s your enemy? Who’s your friend?

When will this talk ever end?

For 2000 years we’ve wondered hard—

Now we can’t play any card.

Paradise is what you see,

What you see is all you need,

Just your eyes can make you kneel,

’Cause what you feel is all that’s real.

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Kurama

A green worm dines on a fat rosebud,

A wasp swoops down, you can hear the thud.

Stormy skies never criticize,

Thunder and lightning just lullabies.

Beginnings and endings, right here in the day,

A dandelion is blown away.

Background is foreground, forward is back,

A swallow’s heaven is an empty shack.

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from Okochi Sanso Villa

Who’s your neighbor? Who’s your friend?

What’s the message you want to send?

You’ll never be a step ahead,

Your soul is never in the red.

Eyes are ears and ears are eyes

Helping us to empathize,

Paradise is what you feel

And what you feel is all that’s real.

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Enkoji

 If you ever visit Enkoji, please say hello to this guy for me. . . . And listen to the water drip!

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On a rainy day

150621_foggy_cedars_600 On a rainy day, in the mist, you might miss the turnoff . . .

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. . . and end up in a place completely new.

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On a rainy day, you might see things that are right in front of you . . .

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. . . that you wouldn’t have noticed had the sky been blue.

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On a rainy day, you might run into folks who, fundamentally, prefer the rain.

霧の中

白さ際立つ

やまぼうし

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On a rainy day, the white flowers of the yamaboushi tree might poke their heads out from the grey . . . just to entice you.

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On a rainy day, you might not worry about the spray coming off the waterfall.

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On a rainy day, on your way home, you might remember the lotus pond.

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On a rainy day, you might imagine each lotus leaf a giant pitcher in a giant hall, with a grand feast in progress, and when each pitcher grows heavy with the puddling water and finally tips over and you hear the water gurgling down into the pond, you might imagine a throat thoroughly quinched. Or you might imagine—well, it’s up to you—you could imagine anything.

That puddling water in those elephantine lotus leaves might remind you of your mother’s favorite crystal, the one she always asked you to be careful with.

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Or you might (whether you’re eight, or eighty-eight) imagine that someone, someone special, has opened up a jewelry box, and there, before your eyes, is a diamond pendant . . . no, no, no, not a diamond pendant, it’s more lovely than that.

You might imagine how it will feel resting upon your breast.

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And those flowers, beaded with rain drops, might make you think, “And from this muddy muck!”

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On a rainy day.

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***Japanese haiku a joint effort from yours truly and Tammy Tam (a tremendous member of the Hearty Hiker team). A rough translation: “In the mist . . . the stark white . . . of the yamaboushi flowers.”

All that’s real

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Yesterday I got up and thought I’d better go out and water the basil I’ve got growing on the lot I’m getting ready to build a house on. It’s not very far. I figured a bit under an hour for the round trip on the bicycle, maybe 10 minutes to water the basil—and zucchini and acorn squash. Fifteen minutes to stand on the lot and feel dazed and happy.

An hour and a half tops.

But it took a lot longer. There was just too much to see.

The lotus flower’s veined pink skin

Is lit up bright from within.

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You have to stop and feel amazed—

It doesn’t burn but stays ablaze.

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Beginnings and endings

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Are right there in the day.

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Background is

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Foreground.

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Forward is back.

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Who’s your enemy? Who’s your friend?

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When will this talk ever end?

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Paradise is what you see

What you see is all you need

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Just your eyes can make you kneel

‘Cause what you feel is all that’s real.

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Oh, and the basil was just fine. Some little fellows had eaten a bit, but with a little luck, there’ll be enough for all.

“All that’s real 2” coming soon. Maybe.

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The end of me

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I’m madly in love with shiroyashio. There, I’ve said it.

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Shiroyashio. Otherwise, known as Rhododendron quinquefolium. It’s a short, stocky, rugged sort of tree, with rough bark—thus, the sometimes nickname of Japanese cork azaela—that grows mainly, as far as I know, along the ridges of a limited number of mountains in Japan.

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The leaves come in whorls of five, with each green whorl red-tipped—“flowers” in themselves. If you can get up to the mountain on just the right day, the white blossoms will be open, and the fresh red and green leaves will glisten in the blue sky like springtime stars. It will amaze you.

At least, it amazes me. Looking at these guys in their spanky clean colors, there’s no way I can feel blue.

When I look at them, and the sun that makes them glisten shines on me, too, well, it’s hard—really hard—to worry about the end of me. Or you.

THE END OF ME

I can feel the end of me / I will never find life’s key

(But) I don’t want your sympathy / (She said) I can feel the end of me.

 I see darkness in the sky / I have lost my will to try

(She said) I no longer can say why / (But) I see darkness in the sky.

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(I said) Please come with me / See what we can see

Please come with me / Feel what we can be.

I just feel that all is vain / Sunny days look like the freezing rain

(She said) I can’t bear this kind of pain / I just feel that all’s in vain.

 (I said) Please come with me / See what we can see

Please come with me / Feel what we can be.

 150215_red_plums1_600Plum blossoms are bursting open now

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White-eyed birds are sucking at the source

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Cherry petals soon will paint the sky

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The yashio will give us reasons why

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Red-tipped leaves will glisten like the stars

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It’s bound to give your closed-up heart a jar

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Open it, pump in that mountain air

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Then you’ll see it’s not all so unfair.

You can find so much happiness–

Just open – your heart.

You can find so much happiness—

Just follow – your heart.

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Sunlight and the leaves

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May 17th. In town, it’s the season for local farmers to plow up and flood rice fields. The ducks are happy.

It’s still spring, but with the rice planting, you can feel the rainy season and the sultry days not so far off. So what to do?

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Why not drive to Umegashima and climb Yanbushi? Re-live those sunlight-on-new-leaves early, early spring days. You know, that new burst of warmth that’s a change from the cold—a warmth that’s both warm and cool.

Everything is bright and light—light as in “not heavy or hazy.”

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Light. That’s the way you feel as you walk along the river, up toward the Yomogi Pass. The light that flickers through the leaves makes you feel light.

Man, that new green—that blue sky.

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I read the other day about cedapods being able to recognize color through their skin. Makes perfect sense to me. Close your eyes and feel these fresh mountain colors on your skin.

Okay. The bare bones. Drive to Umegashima. Turn left at Shinden (新田). Follow the river for a couple of km, the last one along the bumpy gravelly road. Park. Then walk. Up. First up the river, until it ends, and then, from the Yomogi Pass, along the trail with the big views.

For us: Trailhead (9:05), Big Rock (9:45). You will not miss Big Rock. Notice the sticks along its base. They average about three feet in length. That’ll give you some idea as to the scale of the rock. But when you see Big Rock for yourself, you’ll know how big it is, sticks or no sticks.

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But what are those sticks doing down there, leaning up against Big Rock as they are? Are those walking sticks that you’re free to take? No, they are not. They are supporting sticks. They are holding up the rock. They are keeping it from crashing down on your head.

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Skeptical?

I don’t recommend skepticism on a day like this. But if you really can’t help it, well, at least be aware that quite a few people seem convinced that propping a stick against the rock is a good idea. We are, too. So humor us. Doesn’t matter how big the stick you prop up against the rock is. Could be a mere five or six centimeters—if you feel lifting a bigger one is too big a burden. Actually, I’ve heard some people say that the smaller the stick you lean up against the rock, the deeper your appreciation for the joint effort is.

Found your stick? Propped it? Okay, on we go.

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Up, up, up, through light and light green and lightness, all the way to the pass.

Yomogi Pass: 10:35. Leave Yomogi Pass: 10:45.

Last summer, when I climbed Yanbushi, it was all misty, and there was not much to see but a zillion different mushrooms growing all around the edges of the trail. This day a mushroom was nowhere in sight.

This day was a day to enjoy all the dainty flowers lightheartedly frolicking among the light and leaves and light air.

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Playing like kids in a park.

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Oblivious to the years that have been and the years to come.

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Or sometimes, like friends a bit older, out for a mid-morning bask and a chat.

I heard one white petal ask, “So what are we doing up here? Why have we come out today?”

And heard another reply, . . . “What a question! A day like today is so refreshing! This clean, clear air is just the greatest thing there is. Out here like this, I just get to feeling so relaxed and comfortable that I feel like I can talk with you and everyone else about everything. And being out and about and face to face with the sun, well, it’s really good for the old metabolism!”

She was speaking the language of flower petals, of course, but I think I’ve managed to translate fairly accurately.

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Then on up you go.

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Up, up, up.

And then . . .

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. . . there you are.

The peak of Yanbushi: 12:20.

Yes, yes. The clouds are rolling in. The view down is going to be different.

It always is.

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