We’d tried to get a reservation at the Phantom Ranch (at the bottom of the canyon and across the river) for months with no luck. They start taking reservations thirteen months in advance and the number of cabins and dorm beds is quite limited, so we weren’t surprised that nothing ever opened up.

If you’re an ultra-marathoner you might hike down to the river, six miles or so, and get back up and out in a single day—and not think much of it, but for even the experienced hiker this is a pretty long and tough haul, especially if you decide to take the Bright Angel Trail up and out—Bright Angel being a little over ten miles up, up, up from the river. I can’t even imagine what it would be like in summer, when the temperature might be 115 degrees down in the canyon.

We were glad to be there in March, and just glad to be only the fifth name on the waiting list for a spot at the ranch. If we didn’t get two dorm beds, we would be content going  for two short hikes down and up, two days in a row. Amazingly, though, at 7:15 AM the morning we needed to start (if we were going all the way to the river), two dorm beds opened up for us.

So down we headed to the river and the Phantom Ranch.

As the sign says, the South Kaibab Trail follows ridge lines and offers constant sweeping views.

We started about 9:20 AM.  It was around 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

9:30.

Still 9:30.

9:38.

We got to Ah-ooh Point around 9:45. This is where folks on short hikes turn around. Yes, we aaahed and ooohed.

The camera zoomed down on Skeleton Rock.  9:48.

9:50.

9:55.

Now the camera is not zooming in on Skeleton Rock. Still a long way to get there.

10:16.

We got to Cedar Ridge, another turnaround spot, around 10:20. Cedar Ridge has the trail’s first toilet.

10:28.

10:43.

Yep. Gotta go down.

And gotta give way to the mule riders. 11:12.

11:14

11:18

11:38.

Not much shade on the South Kaibab Trail . . . but found enough for a thirty-minute lunch break.  11:49.

11:51. From the canyon rim, you get a pretty darned good view. The difference, though, between standing at the rim, and coming down this far, is the difference between looking in and being in . . . being in and being able to look all around. This is the difference between, sort of . . . kind of . . . let’s say, studying Japanese culture in a university in the U.S. and studying Japanese culture in someone’s home in Yaizu. It’s the difference between, say, sort of, kind of, studying the white whale in a textbook, or (if you dare) plunging into the ocean and diving deep down to the regions he inhabits.

Hey, I said, sort of, kind of.

Anyway, when you’re in the canyon, its contours roll with every step you take. It’s in motion. It feels alive.

And some people say you can feel a million years with every step you take. Walk six miles and you’ve lived a long time.

But in the end it’s just the moments (moment after moment after moment) of seemingly endlessly changing beauty.

The light plays a big role, too. We were blessed with gorgeous blue skies.

12:34.

It’s cherry blossom season in Japan now. Cool March weather delayed it a bit. But yesterday I enjoyed watching the birds go crazy with all the nectar. One bird, I saw, was in a tree all alone. He looked out and there were those thousands and thousands of nectar-rich blossoms. All for himself.

Down deep on the South Kaibab trail, the number of hikers lessens. You can get into a spot where you seem to be able to see forever in so many directions—and not see another soul. Then you’re just like the bird in the cherry tree. You’ve got it all to yourself. For all practical purposes, it is yours.

Let me repeat that. For all practical purposes, it is yours. The Grand Canyon.

That bird, he looked pretty ecstatic.

12:38.

First really good view of the Colorado River.

Everybody likes a good view.

12:43.

You really can feel the energy that molded this great Mother Earth.

13:20.

The environment is a bit harsh for plants . . .

. . . but still there were many blossoming electrically.

13:22.

Oh, my. 13:23.

13:45.

The black bridge we’ll cross.

14:05.

Not far from the river bank. About 75 degrees Fahrenheit at this point.

From the bridge.

In the distance you can see the silver bridge. That’s how you access the Bright Angel Trail, going back up . . . after a good night’s sleep.

14:19.

The Bright Angel Creek flows into the Colorado. Early 20th century, cottonwoods were planted along its banks—and elsewhere in the canyon.                

One of the cabins at the Phantom Ranch. We didn’t get one. We slept in the dorms.

Just as Ishmael was given only two choices at the inn in Bedford—chowder, clam or cod—you’ll get two choices at the Phantom Ranch—steak or stew. I can’t speak for the steak, but the stew was great.

But after a five-hour hike, lots of stuff tastes really good.

Not a bad place to spend an afternoon. Not bad at all.